MASTER'S GrADUATE COLLECTION 2017: ONEIROI
CONCEPT AbSTRACT
To be able to dream and remember what it was is a rare thing. Normally, people forget what they dreamed straight away or can just remember fragments of it. But what if there were people to share their unique dreams with everyone, people, that might not be that gifted to dive into a weird but also great world of experimentation and exploration? This Spring Summer '18 collection „Oneiroi“ spoken „neejri“) is inspired by the science of dreaming. Where do dreams come from? What do they tell us about ourselves? How? These are questions that were part of the research around the big psychologcal myth of this cerebral function. Starting with Freuds view and his theory and analysing modern theories as well is shown in this collection. Are dreams a reflection of our secret desires or future predictions or rather just simple cerebral reactions that happen when memories are being transferred? It might be a bit of all theories in the end, and the belief in it which has the biggest influence for the dreamer. Classic symbol interpretation is used throughout the world to get the meaning of a dream and find a standarized solution for every persons dream. The fact that the relationships, families circumstances or any other happenings can definitely influence dreams are not considered with this method.
So for this collection, the main inspiration doesn‘t come from strangers dreams, but from the personal ones of the designer, that she captured during the whole time of the collection‘s development, and furthermore also tried to influence by being exposed to certain situations. The dream and the process of dreaming are both influencing the designs equally in nearly all design elements.
ProcEss & REALISATION
The fabrics used for the final garments have special properties that emphasise the designs in their own way. The range of materials is also quite huge, just as the dream world itself, a bit of everything, having a high tech material like parachute silk, an outdoor ultra durable material and a somehow bonded waffle like thick fabric with two layers, different net fabrics, jersey, chiffon, satin, classic silk and digitally printed cotton fabrics.
The two prints represent two different aspects of dreaming. The prints can be seen as "phydigital" a fusion of physical and digital processes that are incorporated into the design.
Print 1 is displaying some dream symbols, the actual content of the dreams, confusing and like an adult playground:
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inactivated: possible activation result:
The second print is adressing the process of dreaming showing the brain as the essential place where dreams happen, and eyes, being a symbol itself and expressing the REM (rapid eye movement), the way scientists try to measure the dream phases during sleep.
The prints are done with 3 different methods. The „background“ print is done on Adobe CC (illustator, photoshop) scanning hand drawing and draw on the screen,too and then digitally printed on Cotton satin and poplin. Then afterwards, these prints are again overprinted with the responsive inks: Photochromic ink – a sunlight sensitive pigment that changes from colourless to colour when exposed to UV light, Liquid crystals – being translucent on a black background and activated by heat, changeing colour to the whole spectrum of colour, depending on how hot it gets (see mood rings), and glow in the dark colour, already widely known, can be charged by any kind of light and then glows when theres no light anymore. These inks are printed with screen printing, miking the fabric change colour only at certain areas.
For a bodysuit, the plain polyester bielastic Jersey is printed by using sublimation paper, that is placed on top of the fabric and then placed in a heat press to fix the colour.
Print No. 3 differs a little from the rest as this one is only screen printed. A really organic structure matching the trend topic of tropical, exotic flora and also the cofusion that is often there in dreams.
Another highlight are also the raffles. No small, girly raffles but big and bulky ones that are an eyecatcher when being used on the garment. They are inspired by trends just as the actual movement they have; ups and downs, how they respond to the wearers movement can also be seen in the dreams: bad dreams, daydreams, great dreams and depending on the dreamer himself.
A specialty about this collection are the hand woven nets. The bought net fabric is weaved through with a photochromic prepainted ribbon, symbolizing the neuronic structures in the brain, the (strange) connections that are made within a dream.
In conclusion, ONEIROI is a fun and playful collection that concentrates on the wearer his experience with the garment and his environment reacting to it as well.
bodysuit front, back and reflection, Handbag & reflection
